Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Well it's March, 20 odd degrees, the beach is almost empty, one or two surf schools. This time of the year in the Algarve is awesome for surfing. As I've mentioned before nobody knows the good waves we have here in the off season.
So me and my small crew were pretty much first on the beach, the lesson was had in near perfct conditions for begginners. Lots of powerful white water, great for not having to paddle too much and great to practice turning as well.
As the crew were warned the night before not to drink too much, we arrived fresh and ready. However the toll was taken early as tired muscles were the order of the morning. The beach break was too big and closing out to surf so most stayed to top up their tan or play with their dogs. I had other plans however, kangaroo point was calling. It was near perfect conditions. Kangaroo if anybody doesn't know is our big wave spot. The usual big wave suspects were all amazing absent. So me and a few others paddled out into double overhead bombs. By the time we arrived a few of the big boys were there, Schooner from REDEYE bar in Lagos and a couple of other locals. My first was the steepest drop in I ever had, so late I almost had air time before landing on the bottom of the wave, miraculously I made the drop in and surfed it all the way to just before the big rock bubbbled out to eat me. My second was a classic, double overhead and the biggest wave I ever caught, unfortunately it closed out on the rock, I jumped off and my leash snapped.
So with a long swim and a helping paddle from a friend from one of the surf Schools, I made it to shore. Luckily my board was rescued off the harbour wall and all was well.
The lesson finished early as everyone was knackered - thank God.
So another day in the sunny Algarve concluded with a very special day for both myself and the crew whom all managed to stand on their first ever surf lesson - sweet.