Sunday, February 25, 2007

Mointo big swell on south coast






This last weekend in Praia Da Luz (famous for Rocha Negra point break) saw the biggest swell in a few years on the south coast. The right hand side of the beach, where quite often when Rocha Negra is pumping you might not even see a ripple, had perfect right handers coming off it. They were breaking right against the point and peeling all the way into the middle of the beach.
Some of the bigger sets just closed out and Rocha Negra was off it's t*ts with no-one surfing it unsurprisingly!!
I had a small crew as is surprisingly usual for this time of year. The sun was shining, Frodo met a couple of his canine buddies on the beach and there was only one local surfing (I found out that our 'not so secret spot had every man and his dog, including surf schools there - tut, tut guys) So we had it to ourselves until the camera showed up. yes I was finally going to be on the cover of Surf Portugal!!!! But no, it was the sponsored dudes, Marlon et al. Nonetheless they left promptly as they saw me paddling out to the point and I think they got worried that they couldn't PHOTOSHOP their heads onto my body, so we had it to ourselves again.

After a break for lunch I returned on my own (as the crew were all cream crackered and wanted beers at the Marina) Upon arrival a good friend Jez from the SE surf school was there and we had a few sundowner waves before the tide was too high and anyway at this stage I was dropping in and going head first onto the rocks.

So an awesome day (and weekend ensued) the only dark spot was some poor Portuguese guy paddled out on his new board and caught an awesome wave all the way to the inside. He was however last seen with a very large piece of the nose of his board wedged into his chops as he returned to the beach to skim board with his mates - bummer dude!!

Until the next time guys X

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